Geringsing The famous double ikat cloths from Tenganan Pegeringsingan rank among the masterworks of Southeast Asian textile art. In double ikat, the weft and the warp threads are both patterned using the ikat method. This is an immensely difficult process, requiring great precision not only in dyeing but also in maintaining the proper tension in the threads on the loom, so that the patterns will align properly.
The showpieces of Tenganan are the so called geringsing cloths, instantly recognizable by their muted colors - red and reddish brown, eggshell and blue-black - achieved by dyeing or over-dyeing with red sunti root bark (Morinda citrifolia) and taum or indigo. It is often claimed that the traditional production of the fabric required blood from human sacrifices. These wild rumors have been refuted many times over, but persist in the tourist literature despite the protests of scholars and the people of Tenganan.
All geringsing are made of cotton yarn, decorated with geometrical or floral motifs, lozenges, stars or small crosses. The so called geringsing wayang is best known large four-pointed stars surrounded by four scorpions divide the main field into semi-circular segments, while inside are buildings, animals and wayang figures in the style of ancient east Javanese bas-reliefs, ranging across the cloth in groups of twos and threes.
Geringsing cloths are said to possess the power to protect against malevolent earthly and supernatural enemies. The fame of the cloths' power has spread throughout Bali, and one wonders whether the independence and wealth of the Tenganan community is not in large part due to a monopoly in the manufacture of these magically potent fabrics.
Tengenan girlGeringsing are of importance to all Balinese, irrespective of whether they are used ~Is protective or destructive agents. It is still the custom in quite a few villages to wind the geringsing cloths around the seats and sedan chairs in which the gods are carried to the sea or the river to be bathed. Outside of Tenganan, geringsing are also used in tooth filing ceremonies, to wrap around the head, and for cremation purposes.
Narrow cloths called geringsing sanan empeg ("broken yoke") are worn by men when a brother has died. During their ritually impure period of bereavement and its associated rites, the cloths are thought to be instrumental in protecting the wearer. It is noteworthy that the people of Tenganan do not use geringsing to heal disease in men and animals as is done on other parts of the island. Instead, they use fragments of Indian double ikat which are reputedly just as magical as geringsing. These cloths, called pitola (also pato1a) sutra are woven of silk and were traded to Indonesia for many centuries.
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